Definitions

Cosmetic from A to Z

ALPAFLOR® - Swiss Alpine Plant Extracts​

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The ALPAFLOR®-line consists of sustainably produced plant extracts from Switzerland. For the production, renewable electricity, reduced water, and organic ethanol as the extraction solvent are used:

• Organic farming without any chemicals

• High-altitude cultivation in an unpolluted area

• Pure mountain water

• Long-lasting phytochemical knowledge

• Transparent and traceable

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Anionic Surfactants

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Anionic surfactants have a negatively charged polar head, which typically means they provide good foaming properties and are used to thicken and show high-performance cleaning. They are the most widely used surfactants in terms of quantity.

Mild anionic surfactants of Sellcare: Isethionate, Taurate, Sarcosinate

​Amphoteric Surfactants

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Amphoteric surfactants carry positively and negatively charged groups on their hydrophilic side. They are usually used as co-surfactants as they bring synergies with anionic surfactants. They are mild and clean well.

Amphoteric surfactants have both, positively and negatively charged groups on their hydrophilic side. This dual charge allows them to adapt their behavior based on the pH of their environment.

Typically, these surfactants are used as co-surfactants, meaning they work alongside primary surfactants—often anionic types, which are negatively charged. When combined, amphoteric surfactants help create a synergistic effect, boosting the overall performance of the formula. This means they contribute to better cleaning, enhanced foaming, and improved skin compatibility.

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Sellcare offers a unique grade CAPB that flows when transferred.

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COSMOS

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The COSMOS signature is a consumer guarantee for organic and natural cosmetics. It is backed by the five founding members:​

• ​BDIH (Germany)

• Cosmebio (France)

• Ecocert (France)

• ICEA (Italy)

• Soil Association (United Kingdom)

• A representative from each founding organization forms the board, which is led by Harald Dittmar (BDIH).

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There are 4 signatures of COSMOS, for (finished) products it's the COSMOS ORGANIC and COSMOS NATURAL, and for raw materials, it's one of the following:

• COSMOS CERTIFIED raw materials

     (organic content, physically/chemically processed agro-ingredients with content that         meets the COSMOS-standard)

• COSMOS APPROVED raw materials

     (non-organic raw materials that are certified to the COSMOS-standard).

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Ask Sellcare: To get a list of all COSMOS-approved ingredients. 

Cationic Surfactants

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Cationic surfactants are widely used for hair conditioning as they have antistatic properties. They have a positively charged hydrophilic part.

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Sellcare provides natural guars and other kationic surfactants.
 

Cosmeceuticals

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Cosmeceuticals are products that exist at the intersection of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. The term combines “cosmetics” and “pharmaceuticals.”

Cosmeceuticals differ from conventional cosmetics by combining the benefits of regular skin care products with active ingredients that provide medical-grade treatment for skin issues such as pigmentation spots, offering more effective solutions than traditional creams or cosmetic products alone. We want to stress that this is not a regulated classification but rather a class used by marketing and consumers.

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What is an Example of a Cosmeceutical?

A common example is retinol, a form of vitamin A frequently used in anti-aging products. Retinol promotes cell turnover, stimulates collagen production, and reduces fine lines and wrinkles. Due to its profound impact on skin aging, retinol is one of the most widely used ingredients in cosmeceuticals.

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Exosome Ingredients​

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Exosomes are nanovesicles containing RNA, proteins, and lipids among others. Cells secrete exosomes for communication with other cells or tissue. Exosomes can influence gene expression and cell differentiation, that's why exosomes are of high interest in the field of cosmetic ingredients.

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NATRUE

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NATRUE is an international non-profit organization based in Brussels.

Since 1. July 2024, raw materials can only be certified by the supplier/trader:​

The NATRUE label certifies natural or organic cosmetics. Natrue certified means that a minimum of 75% of products within a brand or subbrand have to comply with the Natrue criteria for end products. To get the organic certification, at least 95% of the natural or natural identic ingredients must be organic.

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Ask Sellcare to receive a list of all Natrue-certified ingredients. 

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​Natural Ingredients

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such as Plant Extracts:

We provide you 100 % natural ingredients such as:

Leontopodium alpinum (ALPAFLOR® Edelweiss CB), Epilobium Fleischeri (ALPAFLOR® ALP-SEBUM CB, ETERWELL™ YOUTH), Scutellaria alpina

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​such as Algae:

Scenedesmus Rubescens (PEPHA®-AGE CB), Dunaliella Salina (PEPHA®-ACTIVE CB), Nannochloropsis Oculata (PEPHA®-TIGHT CB), Fucus vesiculosus (Maritech® Bright), Undaria pinnatifida (Maritech® Reverse)​

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such as Sugars:​

Saccharide Isomerate (PENTAVITIN®)

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such as Oleosomes:

​These natural oil droplets can carry up to 3x their weight thanks to their phospholipid double-layer shell. Can boost the efficacy of active ingredients. Prolonged moisturization with a time-release effect.

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such as:

Glycosides as Emulsifiers, Amphoacetates, Betaines, Coconut Alkanes, Exfoliants, Plantwaters, Oils, Seed Extracts and Powders

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Non-ionic Surfactants

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Non-ionic surfactants do not have a charge, they are usually very mild surfactants.

Sellcare provides various Glucosides

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​Menopause

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General:

Menopause is a natural phase that every biological woman experiences, yet it remains a topic often avoided in conversation. We aim to change that. The hormonal changes during menopause present unique challenges, and our goal is to help women navigate this transition as comfortably as possible. Dsm-firmenich has developed a specialized concept, combining research on the microbiome with menopause, to offer innovative support during this time.

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What is the difference between menopause and the climacteric (Wechseljahre)?

The climacteric, or Wechseljahre, refers to the entire transition period leading up to and following menopause. This includes perimenopause (the time before menopause when symptoms begin) and postmenopause (the time after menstruation has stopped). Menopause itself refers to the specific point when a woman has not had a menstrual period for 12 consecutive months, marking the official end of her reproductive years.

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At what age does menopause occur?

Menopause typically occurs between the ages of 45 and 55, with the average age being around 51. However, it can happen earlier or later, depending on various factors such as genetics, lifestyle, and overall health.

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How does menopause start?

Menopause is often preceded by a phase called perimenopause, during which menstrual cycles become irregular, and symptoms like hot flashes, mood changes, and sleep disturbances begin to appear. Perimenopause can last several years before the complete cessation of menstruation.

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What happens during menopause?

During menopause, a woman’s body undergoes hormonal changes, primarily a decrease in estrogen and progesterone levels, which marks the end of her menstrual cycles. This transition can lead to symptoms such as hot flashes, night sweats, mood swings, and changes in sleep patterns. Menopause also signals the end of fertility, as the ovaries stop releasing eggs.

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How can cosmetic products help during menopause?

​dsm-firmenich has developed a concept and and, within that framework, created formulations with active ingredients that address consumers' most commonly expressed challenges:

• Hot flushes

• dry, itchy skin and scalp

• age spots

• lines, wrinkles and sagging

• skin sensitivity and redness

• hair loss

• hair thinning

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Ask us for the documentation or for product ideas.

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Microbiome

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General:

The microbiome has been a topic in gut health for decades, and the interest in its role for our skin health is now bigger than ever. In the intestine, a balanced diet supports the gut flora, which consists of various bacteria that aid digestion and overall health. An imbalance in these bacteria can negatively impact the gut and affect the body's ability to absorb nutrients, highlighting the importance of maintaining a healthy microbiome. Similarly, the skin’s microbiome is vital for skin health, protecting against harmful bacteria and external factors. Just as the gut microbiome influences our nutrition and health, the skin microbiome is equally important and influences the condition and appearance of our skin.​​​

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Brief description of pre-, pro- and postbiotics:

Prebiotic: feed bacteria

Probiotic: add bacteria - might be challenging due to regulatory restrictions

Postbiotic: use bacterial compounds

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Regulatory Framework:

• Must correspond to the definition of cosmetic in the launched countries

• Must be safe under normal conditions of use

• Claims must be cosmetic claims and claims must be substantiated

• Microbiology quality

• GMP

Sellcare can provide you with data on the correlation between the skin microbiome composition (bacterial composition) and changes in skin physiology, particularly:

• Sunfilter and the microbiome

• Flaky Scalp and the microbiome

• Oily skin, dry skin, and normal skin - different bacterial distribution (Epibiome Beauty)

• Ready-to-use microbiome-friendly certified formulations

Ask us for dsm-firmenichs product documentation for further details.​

Peptides

With dsm-firmenich, Sellcare has access to over 60 years of experience in the field of peptide research. From identifying customer needs to producing actives on a large scale, dsm-firmenich gathered a wide knowledge in this area. Peptides are small and very distinguished structures known for maximum efficacy, They mimic biological skin processes from within to optimize skin health and skin appearance.

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Some of the latest peptides are:

SYN®-GLOW tans your skin without orange discoloration typically occurring with other tanning substances. This peptide enhances the natural pigmentation from within, in just 5 days (MC1R regulator).

SYN®-COLL CB boosts the skin's internal collagen production while protecting it against collagen degradation. 

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Our all-time-favourit:

SYN®-AKE with a botox-like function helps skin to relax, smoothing the appearance of deep wrinkles.

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​RSPO - Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil

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RSPO is the most widely known standard for sustainable palm oil production. About 19 % of the global palm oil production is following RSPO standards. Sellcare AG is the holder of the  RSPO distributor license.

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What does RSPO mean in more detail?

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• No deforestation of primary forests and ecological valuable forest areas

• Protection of water, soil, and air

• Comply with the laws, no child labor

• Supporting small farmers

• On-site controls through authorized auditors

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Salicylates

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Salicylates are under review from both the EU Cosmetic Regulation and ECHA (REACH), Among other substances, HMS and EHS are also affected:

• Ethylhexyl Salicylate (EHS): 2-ethylhexyl salicylate

• Homosalate (HMS): 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate

Why this Change in Self-Classification?

Along with other major industry players, dsm-firmenich made significant efforts to avoid vertebrate testing of salicylates. Unfortunately, this was not approved, and the appeal was dismissed by the EU Court of Justice. As a result, the only solution was found to be a "read-across" justification, which requires a change in self-classification:

• Reproductive toxicant category 2

• H361d: Suspected of damaging the unborn child

From 2025 onwards, HMS will only be permitted for use in facial products at a concentration of 7.34% in the EU. Therefore, dsm-firmenich has already set the allowed value in the SunScreen Optimizer™ to 0.00% for the EU.

The mandatory self-classification does not affect the current 'safe use levels' of these substances as UV filters. 

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​Senolytic Ingredients

The finding of senescent cells in 1961 by Hayflick and Moorehead can be seen as a starting point for the research of senolytics.

Berries, green tea and grapes are known senolytic foods, while in medicine, quercetin and

Dasatinib (a drug) are very well studied. But which active ingredients offer beneficial effects in cosmetics? 

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For the first time, a full senolytic substation in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo is available for cosmetic use. ETERWELL™ YOUTH is a potent 100% natural true senolytic active that is COSMOS, and Natrue certified.

How does ETERWELL™ YOUTH impact senescent cells to benefit our skin?

This senolytic reduces the senescent cells in the skin by helping them to clear out, so new cells can grow in these places. 

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Can senolytics reverse aging?

ETERWELL™ YOUTH has shown to reduce the skin's age in-vivo by 6 years after only 2 weeks, and 9 years after 3 months, measured on skin texture improvements. Further, five important skin senescence markers have been reduced significantly.​​